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Panel & bias power supply replacement
process
MartinLogan will also ask you to update the
ARC Genesis firmware within your speakers as a matter of course.
A short firmware guide is also supplied. I did question validity
of the firmware update as I do not see the connection with the
ARC software and panel issues, however, MartinLogan advised this
should be completed as part of the ‘overall process.’
The numbers, 1 – 4, 5 - 9 etc should assist when working
with the MartinLogan guide.
Preparation (click the photographs above
to enlarge)
For my own piece of mind I first cut two separate
pieces of wood to the exact height (or tilt) of my speakers. This
will make the height set-up of my speakers much easier when I
am ready to place them back into position. The pieces of wood
will also serve as supports while I adjust the spikes and help
to protect my porcelain tiled floor. I then marked the exact position
of the floor spike protectors (just in case they moved out of
position during this process). Again, this will make speaker repositioning
easier.
1 – 4 Prepare a soft surface
and lay the speaker on one side. Unscrew floor spikes and glider
feet with ½” allen key. Set both floor spikes and
glider feet aside. Lower the base panel gradually onto a support
plinth (you will not be able to lower the base to the floor until
you complete the next harness removal step). Disconnect the two
amplifier harnesses from the circuit boards (two cables left).
Once the two amplifier harnesses are removed
you can then remove the ESL panel harness (black sleeved cable
on the right) from its bias power supply.
At this point I would recommend swapping out
the old bias power supply circuit board for the new one (if suppled).
The old power supply circuit board is removed by simply removing
the four corner screws.
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/3mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(60).jpg)
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/4mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(62).jpg)
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/5mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(63).jpg)
Disconnecting the two amplifier harnesses (red
and black cables to the left) & ESL harness (black sleeved
cable to the right).
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/6mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(66).jpg)
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/7mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(72).jpg)
Swapping out the old bias power supply circuit
board for the new one.
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/8mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(78).jpg)
5 - 9 If you have not already
done so, remove the front grill, then remove the left & right
grill insulators. You may need to use a clean flat head screwdriver
to gently prize the insulators at the top, or bottom. Once you
get part of the insulator removed it will then pull away easily.
It is important to remember the correct angle the insulators
come out, so you can squeeze them gently back into place when
you refitting later.
Using a 5/32” (or 4mm) hex driver, remove
the screws along the front (each side) of the grill core. Once
removed, you will see the airframe mounting brackets.
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/9mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(49).jpg)
Removing the screws from the grill core.
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(4).jpg)
10 – 14 Using a 3mm hex
driver, remove the two screws (one each side) connecting the air
frames to the speaker base.
Using a 5/32” hex driver, remove the airframe
mounting screws (left & right). Make a note of the
white wire clip location. You should now be able to remove
the air frame from the speaker font.
Using a 5/64” (or 2mm hex driver) carefully
remove the four small screws holding the midstrut cover to the
midstrut. Note – it is easy to damage
these small screws if they do not unscrew after a few short sharp
turns of the hex driver. If you have problems loosening these
screws, you could try using WD40. If this does not work, you may
have to drill the screw head off using a carbide drill bit (as
I did). However, please seek further advice from your distributor
if you experience problems first and foremost! You will have
to source replacement of any screws removed in this way as MartinLogan
will not supply them!
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(33).jpg)
Make a note of the white wire clip location.
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(29).jpg)
![MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply replacement process](photos/large/mlesl11a_panel_replacment_290324-(36).jpg)
Drilling off the head of one
of the screws holding the midstrut cover to the midstrut.
Further
Recommended
Viewing
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Use the links below to go to the MartinLogan
Impression ESL11A panel
& bias power supply replacement page three,
or MartinLogan Impression ESL11A panel & bias power supply
replacement page two,
or the MartinLogan Scenario Owner Experience one...
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